Spring and summer moose hides are better for tanning than a winter hide, which is very thick and hard to soften.Ī fresh hide is the best for tanning. Fall caribou hides are ideal because the hide is thick and the hair is not too long. The most commonly tanned hides are moose and caribou. They are strong, durable, lightweight and warm – the perfect material to make clothing, bedding and footwear to sustain life in the Arctic. Traditionally tanned hide is a unique material that has been used for survival by Aboriginal groups of Northern Canada for centuries. Today, art handmade from traditionally prepared materials is becoming increasingly hard to find, which is reflected in its price point in the marketplace. This heritage is evident in the artwork, shared by the artist for all to enjoy. Fine sandpaper can be used to smooth the surface further.Traditionally-made arts and crafts are an important glimpse into our history and help preserve the rich Aboriginal cultures of the Northwest Territories (NWT). More neatsfoot oil might need to be applied throughout the process. Take breaks, keep repeating until it is soft as desired. The next day, when the hide is slightly damp, drag it back and forth over a pole, a sawhorse, or a board. Cover with a plastic sheet or something to retain the moisture over night. Rub half of this mixture on the hide, let it soak in for a half hour and then apply the second half. Mix 3 1/2 oz of neatsfoot oil with an equal portion of water and 1 oz ammonia. You can use nails to tack the hide - hair side down - to a large board to dry half way. Immerse the hide in the solution for 4-6 days (if in doubt, go longer). Then slowly, slowly pour the small bucket into the large, stirring to help the bubbles dissolve. Add 2 1/2 lb of salt to 4 gal water, mix until dissolved. Alum is available at the grocery store in tiny spice jars, but if you look around, you can probably find a pound of it for pretty cheap. Here we’ll add 1 lb of alum to 1 gal of water, mix until dissolved. In short, an acid solution prevents the growth of bacteria. The hide is preserved through a process akin to pickling. Once the hair is off, soak the hide in clean water for 6-10 hours, then in a bath of 10 gal with 1 pint of vinegar to stop the action of the caustic solution (the acid of the vinegar might cause some slight bubbles). Remove the hair by the same process that the fat, muscle, and membrane were removed from the other side. Don’t leave it longer than necessary to remove the hair, though, or the hide will break down. The hide is immersed in this mixture for two to three days, when the hair should slough off with ease. In this case, we’re adding 1 gal wood ashes and 2 lb slaked lime to 5 gal water. Be careful, as you could create a solution with a high pH and cause chemical burns. This is done by soaking the hide in an alkaline solution. If you want just leather, you’ll have to remove the hair. After salting and rinsing, more membrane (and a bit of fat and flesh missed before) can be scraped off on top of the hide-scraping bench with the butter knife or dull hacksaw blade. This is just a repetition of the scraping done in the first step. So far, we have skinned, fleshed, salted, and rinsed our hide.
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